Ball Pythons are not for people who are just starting out. They get pretty big, so they need a big cage, which means they need more care. They need a humid place to live, which can be hard for beginners to provide.
Even a small change in their environment or food source can make them picky eaters. If you are a total beginner, you might not be able to figure out why your Ball Python isn’t eating, and you can just watch your snake die of starvation.
But if you can take good care of a beautiful snake and like to handle and care for it, a Ball Python is the one for you.
The Ball Python’s head is shaped like a “A,” and its snout is blunt. Their head is connected to a thick neck, which leads to a chunky body. The tail is short and thin and ends right where the body does.
The fact that ball pythons are thick and have a good girth makes them easy to handle. This makes them great for children to use, as long as an adult is there to watch.
The only obvious difference between males and females is size. Females are bigger than males. On average, they are about 4 feet tall, but they can sometimes grow to 5 feet. On average, men are about 3 feet tall and a little bit thinner than women.
The Ball Python is a very calm snake. They would rather run away than fight, and they don’t mind being handled often. This is a great trait because it means they are the right size and temperament to be easy for children to handle.
The young ones can be a bit snappy at first, but they grow out of this if they are socialized well.
Ball Pythons are snakes that come out at night. So, they are most active in the morning and evening. If you want to watch your snake explore its cage, the best times to do it are at dawn and dusk.
Ball Pythons will roll up into a ball and hide their heads under their coils when they feel threatened. This is where they got their name!
If they are feeling defensive or ready to fight, their bodies will tense up and their necks will make a “S” shape. They will be able to see the object or prey that has caught their attention and follow it.
Find out how to read your ball. Python’s body language so you don’t have to deal with them when they’re mad.
Ball Pythons mostly stay on the ground, but some of them climb trees. This means that if you give them perches and rocks to climb on, they will go up and down the walls of their cages.
Ball Pythons are snakes that live a long time. If you buy this snake, you should be ready to keep it for 20 to 30 years.
Ball Pythons can be kept in 20-gallon tubs or on a rack. But if you want them to live a long, rich, and happy life, you should keep them in 40- to 75-gallon cages.
As a general rule, your snake should be able to stretch out to its full length along two of the enclosure’s sides. If your snake is 5 feet long, the enclosure should be at least 3 feet long and at least 2 feet wide.
Because these snakes spend some time in trees, the height of the enclosure should be the same as or greater than its width.
Do not put your baby Ball Python in a 50-gallon enclosure when it is first born. The cage should get bigger as the snake does. So be ready to upgrade your Ball Python’s cage as it grows.
Your Ball Python needs a good temperature gradient so that it can choose what temperature to be at for its different metabolic processes.
You can make this gradient by putting all the heat sources at one end of the enclosure. As you move away from the heat sources, the enclosure will get cooler.
Your Ball Python will like to swim every once in a while. Their bowl of water needs to:
- nonporous as this will alter the humidity levels,
- large enough for your snake to get into, and
- deep enough that your snake won’t slosh water over the side and alter the humidity levels when getting in or out.
If you see poop in the water, you must change it every day or more often.
We recommend giving your Ball Python one good-sized prey item once a week.
Only once a month is allowed for adults. That is fine as long as they stay active and keep a healthy weight.
Ball Mice and rats are fine food for snakes. But it’s good to give them chicks and the occasional quail to change up their diet.
We always suggest frozen prey that has been thawed.
Prey that has been frozen and then thawed does not have parasites and can’t hurt your snake. When you feed your snake live prey, you also have to pay to keep that live prey in an ethical way.
Sexing Your Ball Python
You can ask for a male or female snake (or any combination of the two) when you order, but we can’t promise which one you’ll get. But we can promise that someone with a lot of experience with reptiles will try to pick out the snake(s) you want.
Shipping Your Ball Python
When you buy a Ball Python from us, we promise that it will arrive alive, no matter what. Before you order, please read the details of our guarantee.
Because we sell reptiles, amphibians, tarantulas, and scorpions online in a responsible way, we reserve the right to delay your order if the weather is too bad. This happens very rarely. This is only done to keep the animal(s) safe, and if it does happen, you will be notified by email.
How long will it take for my Ball Python to shed?
Every four to six weeks, your Ball Python will shed its skin. From start to finish, it takes between one and two weeks.
When your snake is done shedding, check to make sure that no shed is stuck. If a shed is stuck, you can either soak it in water or raise the humidity in the enclosure.
How do I feed my Ball Python?
Once the prey item has reached the right temperature, open the snake’s cage and use tongs to move the prey item close to the snake.
If your snake doesn’t eat it right away, leave the food in the cage overnight. Leave it on a rock at the warmer end of the enclosure so that the prey doesn’t get too cold too fast.
How long can my ball python go without eating?
Ball About 6 months can go by without a python eating. But if they feel like their environment is stressful or unhealthy, they can starve themselves to death.
How do I get my Ball Python to eat?
- Check the that enclosure settings are right. Sometimes Ball Pythons go off feed when they are cold or the humidity isn’t right.
- Check the prey item is the temperature of a living mouse/rat. Remember that pythons have heat-sensing pits that they use to detect prey.
- If your Ball Python is still being a reluctant eater then you can scent the frozen/thawed prey item by braining it. Sometimes enhancing the smell of the prey is key.
- Reduce your handling before feeding days. Excessive handling can cause your snake enough stress that it won’t eat.
- Try an erratic feeding “schedule” to mimic natural hunting behaviors. Vary the length of time between feeds, vary the size and type of prey.
- Sometimes you just need to wait the snake out.